I will start by telling you about myself. I started working in a body shop at the age of 14. I progressed from detailing cars to running the shop at the age of 21. I took a brief sabbatical from that to work in Volkswagon assembly plant, which I quickly realized was not for me. So I opened my own body shop.
Through out the years of my business I've restored numerous muscle cars, antiques, & built a number of custom cars. But that was not my main line of business. My main line of work was Unibody frame repairs & Unibody sheet metal repairs. In that period I disassembled & reassembled thousands of Unibodys. That is completely true. As we know, the Mustang is an early model Unibody. In my years of doing this work I've had to reverse engineer their construction & understand why they were constructed the way they were in order to rebuild them to factory Specifications. Not only for looks but for structural integrity also.
I use a laser measuring system to set all frame sections & body panels with in 2 mm of tolerance. This is today's standards not 1965's standards. In the 60's Unibodys were new & not perfected. My object in rebuilding a Mustang is to bring it up to today's standards of accuracy for better handling,exterior panel fitting, & corrosion protection. The Mustang in the 60's did not have the benefits of today's technology for corrosion protection, that's' why they rusted out. I use today's technology in Acid Etching primers, Urethane sealers & Urethane Seam sealers. I use these products from the inside of the Unibody structure were rust likes to start to the outside panels. I believe not only in making your Mustang perfectly straight with a perfect glass like paint job, but also MAKING YOUR MUSTANG HAVE THE ABILITY IN STRUCTURE & CORROSION PROTECTION for your great great grandchildren to look at, drive, & enjoy. In order for this to happen after each welding stage that section has to be re-acid etch primed before covering with the next panel. This is ungratified work because no body sees it. But it is very important for the long life expectancy of your Mustang.
I mentioned that I build the Mustang to 2mm tolerance, that creates better handling & eliminates the need for shims in between panels which is a place for rust to start.
I also reinforce areas such as the the steering box area of the Unibody which have a tendency to crack & rust. I also offer an upgrade in Unibody Stability & Performance with out changing it's appearance. Call me or Email me to talk about that. As I reinstall parts & components,nothing gets reassembled unless it has been reconditioned, rebuilt, or replaced. This is wether the part is seen or not. All bolt on parts are painted separately & then installed. Their is no such thing as a paint edge or overspray on my cars. Every clip, bolt, & screw is either new or specialty coated. As bolts etc. are reinstalled there is a corrosion protection applied to them so that rust does not form around the thread areas.
My shop is equipped with Frame Machine, Building Jig Table, Lifts, Factory Spray Booth, MiG Welders, Plasma Cutters, Laser Measuring System, Bead Blasting Cabnet, Powder Coating Equipment, Tig Welder, Residence Welder & a Radio. Each piece of equipment has its own purpose in restoring your Mustang. I'm going to touch on one piece of equipment in particular, that is the Building Jig Table. As you know the Mustang is a Unibody. So there is no good way to do the structural repairs on a turn table or on the floor. These repairs need to be done on a Building Jig Table in order to keep your vehicle in proper specs.